Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans

La Dibona – 3130 m

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Refuge du Soir©Eric Beallet_0005

Eric Beallet

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The Dibona, a granite spire rising into the clear sky of Oisans, attracts climbers from all over the world. This elegant 300m pyramidal monolith with healthy and pleasant rocks, offers a varied and subtle climb.

The ascent of these granite slabs, which can be achieved in 14 or 15 lengths, is a milestone in the life of a mountaineer.
The south face, the most attractive and also the most crowded, is a fine climb. To reach the summit, you follow a combination of routes: the Madier route direct south face, the Boell route normal south face, the Berthet variant and the Stofer variant.
The Madier route, 50 years old and still in the running, has been partially re-equipped (belay on bolts, 2 points per length). The top of the Madier crack has been damaged, the 5C has become a fairly committed 6A. The installation of a large friend is necessary.
Descend via the Angelo Dibona route, 2 or 3 rappels.
1st ascent: South face by A. and J. Boell, A le Ray in 1935.
Topo – maps: TOP 25 3436 ET Meije Pelvoux.
“New Oisans, Wild Oisans” western book, Jean-Michel Cambon
Difficulty: D (Berthet-Boell route), TD (Madier route)
Duration: 6 hour

Further information :

Mountaineering is the climbing of mountains that requires special equipment to cross rock, ice or cliffs.

Rating: Two aspects are considered in the mountaineering rating, the technical difficulty as well as the altitude and duration. The + or – refines the rating in each category.
F / Easy
PD / Little Difficult
AD / Quite Difficult
D / Difficult
TD / Very Difficult
ED / Extremely Difficult
ABO / Abominably Difficult

Equipment: Harness, mountain boots, helmet, crampons, ice axe, 100 m rappel rope, chocks and friends, quickdraws, ice screws, self-locking, headlamp, altimeter watch. Equipment rental in many sports stores.

Meet our partners

Angelo Dibona (1879-1956) is one of the best guides of his generation. He opened major paths to the Meije and in the Dolomites. This exceptional climber, a precursor of modern climbing, loves big faces above all. During his prime between 1908 and 1914, he was found everywhere from Dauphiné to Mont Blanc. In 1913, on June 27, in winter conditions, he candidly climbed, in 3-sup, the Pain de Sucre du Soreiller, a peak then considered impassable which, after years of controversy, would become the Dibona. Angelo Dibona, at the age of 37, offered himself the normal route… The "Devil of the Dolomites" set off again for other alpine adventures, leaving his name to this emblematic peak of Oisans.

Location details

From Bourg d'Oisans, take the RD 1091 towards Briaçon and turn right towards "Saint-Christophe – La Bérarde" on the D530. Park at Les Etages (after St-Christophe) in the car park on the left and follow the path that goes up to the Soreiller refuge (1100m of altitude difference, approximately 3 hours of walking).