La Roche de la Muzelle – 3465 m

From the Muzelle refuge at an altitude of 2 m, climb the grassy slopes of a ridge to the east. Go up the long series of steps to the foot of the Muzelle glacier. Set foot on the glacier and cross it towards the Jean-Martin pass. The north-east ridge of the Muzelle begins with a steep step, then you reach a spur and a corridor to find yourself on the edge of the ridge. The path is then easy to the summit. Descend by the same route.

1st ascent by the north-east ridge by Bouvier and Clerc, 1928.
Topo, maps: 25 IGN, 3335 ET Alpe d'Huez.
Summit of the Ecrins, Glénat edition.
Difficulty: PD
1st day: 4 hours
2nd day: 8 hours from the refuge round trip and 3 hours to the parking lot.


CULTURE
The first of Coolidge and Almer on the Muzelle, eastern slope.
The American Reverend William Coolidge and his Swiss guide Christian Almer, authors of many firsts, reached the summit of La Muzelle on July 2, 1875. In total, Coolidge accumulated more than 1 ascents, including 700 major objectives! He would leave his name to three major summits in Oisans, the Coolidge peak (900 m) at the foot of the Barre des Écrins, the Coolidge peak, the northern summit and highest summit of the Olan peak and the Coolidge corridor, an obligatory passage on the normal route of the Pelvoux crossing.

In 1870 he reached the summit of the Finger of God on the Meije central with his aunt (who will give her name to Pointe Brevoort au Râteau), but the Grand Pic de la Meije resists him and will be whispered to him by the famous Gaspard de la Meije who will declare “it will not be foreign guides who arrive first”.

Alpinism: Definition: Climbing mountains which requires special equipment to cross rock, ice or cliff.

Rating: Two aspects are considered in the mountaineering rating, the technical difficulty as well as the altitude and duration. The + or – refines the rating in each category.

F / Easy
PD / Little Difficult
AD / Quite Difficult
D / Difficult
TD / Very Difficult
ED / Extremely Difficult
ABO / Abominably Difficult

Equipment: Harness, mountain boots, helmet, crampons, ice axe, 100 m rappel rope, chocks and friends, quickdraws, ice screws, self-locking, headlamp, altimeter watch. Equipment rental in many sports stores.

Contact mountain professionals in Oisans. Full list on the website http://www.montagne-oisans.com/montagne-alpes-sejours-20.html