Les Bans – 3669 m

From the Pilatte refuge, located at 2 m, go up the glacier (access by cables). Head towards a rocky nodule then turn left to reach a flat area. Go back up towards the south by the main slopes to reach the eastern pass of Bans. From the pass (577 m) join the ridge which leads to the western pass of Bans (snow and rocks, easy mixed).

From the west pass, follow the ridge to the foot of a large gendarme. Turn left of the gendarme; continue on the ridge via purple rocks. Cross a steeper wall (3b, 2 pitons) then head towards a gap clearly visible by a slab (3b, 2 pitons). Then join a corridor to finish the ascent. Same route on the descent. Mark the two abseils carefully. Go around the large gendarme on the right when descending. From the summit to the refuge: 3 hours.

1st ascent: Christian Almer, father and son with William Coolidge, 1878.
Topo – maps: IGN 3436 ET Meije Pelvoux.
Guide to the Upper Dauphiné Massif des Ecrins Volume III, F.Labande.
Difficulty: IV, PD+
Day 1: from the parking lot to the refuge: 3 hours
2nd day: from the refuge A/R: 11 a.m.

CULTURE
Portrait: Swiss guide Christian Almer
He was already a guide with the Zermatt company when he met Whymper, a famous English mountaineer and watercolourist. They made many ascents and firsts together, including the Aiguille Verte in 1865. Then he met Coolidge, and this was the beginning of a 17-year mountaineering partnership. In 1874, Almer inaugurated a first winter ascent on the Jungfrau in January, a real feat for the time given the equipment available.

In 1885, Almer froze his feet during a winter tour, which would mark the end of his prodigious career as a guide. “A more loyal heart and a firmer foot could not be found in the Alps.” Whymper.

Please note: access to and visits to La Bérarde (Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans) are strictly prohibited until further notice.> Municipal decree of the commune Saint-Christophe-en-Oisans, dated 22/06/2024

Alpinism: Definition: Climbing mountains which requires special equipment to cross rock, ice or cliff.

Rating: Two aspects are considered in the mountaineering rating, the technical difficulty as well as the altitude and duration. The + or – refines the rating in each category.

F / Easy
PD / Little Difficult
AD / Quite Difficult
D / Difficult
TD / Very Difficult
ED / Extremely Difficult
ABO / Abominably Difficult

Equipment: Harness, mountain boots, helmet, crampons, ice axe, 100 m rappel rope, chocks and friends, quickdraws, ice screws, self-locking, headlamp, altimeter watch. Equipment rental in many sports stores.

Contact mountain professionals in Oisans. Full list on the website http://www.montagne-oisans.com/montagne-alpes-sejours-20.html